Dress watches
A dress watch is meant to disappear under a shirt cuff. That means thin, small and simple: two or three hands, a clean dial, a polished case and a leather strap. It's the watch for weddings, interviews and anything with a jacket.
Current models
137
Median case
37 mm
Median lug-to-lug
44.5 mm
Median list price
$2,330
What makes a dress watch
- A thin case, ideally under 10 mm, so it slides under a cuff
- A case of 34 to 40 mm, smaller than a sports watch
- A simple dial with applied indexes or Roman numerals and little or no lume
- A leather strap, though a slim bracelet works
The dress watch is the oldest wristwatch style, descended directly from the thin pocket watches of the early 1900s. The Patek Philippe Calatrava of 1932 is the usual reference point: round, plain and small.
Case sizes
- 14–16 mm1
- 16–18 mm0
- 18–20 mm2
- 20–22 mm5
- 22–24 mm9
- 24–26 mm5
- 26–28 mm11
- 28–30 mm9
- 30–32 mm9
- 32–34 mm5
- 34–36 mm6
- 36–38 mm10
- 38–40 mm25
- 40–42 mm33
- 42–44 mm6
- 44–46 mm1
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time
Citizen L Bianca
Timex Marlin 1965 Reissue Hand-Wound 34mm
Tissot PR 100 40mm
Casio LTP-B150D
Best dress watches under $500
| Watch | Case | Lug-to-lug | Thick | Water | Movement | List price | eBay median |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Seiko Presage Cocktail TimeSRPB41 | 40.5 mm | 47.5 mm | 11.8 mm | 50 m | Automatic | $475 | $428 |
| Citizen L BiancaEW5600-52D | 21.5 mm | — | — | 50 m | Solar | $395 | $276 |
| Timex Marlin 1965 Reissue Hand-Wound 34mmTW2R47900 | 34 mm | 41 mm | 10 mm | 30 m | — | $259 | $229 |
| Tissot PR 100 40mmT150.410.11.041.00 | 40 mm | — | 8.3 mm | 100 m | Quartz | $350 | $298 |
| Casio LTP-B150DLTP-B150D-7B | 22 mm | 31 mm | 7.5 mm | — | Quartz | $90 | $123 |
| Fossil Townsman AutomaticME3098 | 44 mm | — | — | 50 m | Automatic | $280 | $179 |
Best dress watches from $500 to $1,500
| Watch | Case | Lug-to-lug | Thick | Water | Movement | List price | eBay median |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hamilton Ventura QuartzH24411732 | 32 mm | 50 mm | 9.3 mm | 50 m | Quartz | $1,075 | $723 |
| Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 34mmSRPL64 | 34 mm | 40.4 mm | 10.7 mm | 50 m | Automatic | $595 | $499 |
| Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 39.3mmT006.407.11.033.00 | 39.3 mm | — | 9.8 mm | 30 m | Automatic | $795 | $590 |
| Bulova Super Seville96B440 | 37.5 mm | 42.3 mm | 10.5 mm | 30 m | Quartz | $695 | $450 |
| Movado Museum Classic 40mm0607269 | 40 mm | — | 6.8 mm | 30 m | Quartz | $650 | $430 |
| Furlan Marri CastagnaMicrobrand1009-A | 38 mm | 46 mm | 12 mm | 50 m | Quartz | $713 | $1,432 |
Best dress watches from $1,500 to $5,000
| Watch | Case | Lug-to-lug | Thick | Water | Movement | List price | eBay median |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Grand Seiko Heritage 9F Quartz 37mmSBGX261 | 37 mm | 44.6 mm | 10 mm | 100 m | Quartz | $2,700 | $2,604 |
| Cartier Tank Française SmallWSTA0129 | 21.2 mm | 25.7 mm | 6.8 mm | 30 m | Quartz | $4,450 | $4,940 |
| Longines DolceVita 20.8 x 32L5.255.4.71.6 | 20.8 mm | 32 mm | — | 30 m | — | $1,650 | $1,598 |
| Rado True Square AutomaticR27077102 | 38 mm | — | 9.7 mm | 50 m | Automatic | $2,450 | $1,828 |
| Movado Heritage 1917 Automatic3650253 | 35 mm | 45.2 mm | 10 mm | 30 m | Automatic | $1,595 | — |
| Seiko King Seiko KSKSPB279 | 37 mm | 43.6 mm | 12.1 mm | 100 m | Automatic | $1,700 | — |
Best dress watches over $5,000
| Watch | Case | Lug-to-lug | Thick | Water | Movement | List price | eBay median |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rolex Sky-Dweller336934 | 42 mm | 50 mm | 14.1 mm | 100 m | Automatic | $17,750 | $25,565 |
| Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 80 HoursSLGH005 | 40 mm | 47 mm | 11.7 mm | 100 m | Automatic | $9,800 | $8,831 |
| Cartier Panthère de Cartier SmallWSPN0013 | 22 mm | 30.3 mm | 6 mm | 30 m | Quartz | $5,300 | $6,161 |
| IWC Portugieser ChronographIW371605 | 41 mm | 48 mm | 13.1 mm | 30 m | Automatic | $9,200 | $7,236 |
| Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G6119G-001 | 39 mm | 47 mm | 8.1 mm | 30 m | Manual | $37,510 | $34,999 |
| Tudor MonarchM2639W1A0U | 39 mm | 46.2 mm | 11.9 mm | 100 m | Automatic | $5,875 | $7,742 |
One watch per brand in each price range, ordered by how many are listed on eBay right now, a rough measure of what people buy. List prices are manufacturer prices in US dollars.
Shortest lug-to-lug
Dress watches by wrist size
Cheaper alternatives to the icons
Questions
- What size dress watch should I get?
- The median dress watch in our catalog is 37 mm across with a 44.5 mm lug-to-lug and 9.9 mm thick. Lug-to-lug matters more than case size: for an ideal fit, keep it under 47.2 mm on a 6.5" wrist or 55.1 mm on a 7.5" wrist.
- How much does a good dress watch cost?
- The 137 current dress watches in our catalog run from $90 to $50,400 list, with a median of $2,330. The cheapest is the Casio LTP-B150D LTP-B150D-7B.
- What is the smallest-wearing dress watch?
- By lug-to-lug, the Cartier Tank Française Small WSTA0129 at 25.7 mm, followed by the Hamilton Boulton Small Second Quartz M H13321811 at 27 mm.
- Are most dress watches automatic?
- 63% of the dress watches in our catalog with a known movement are mechanical (automatic or hand-wound); the rest are quartz or solar.
- Can a dress watch be automatic?
- Yes, but the rotor adds thickness. The thinnest dress watches use hand-wound or quartz movements; an automatic dress watch is usually 1 to 3 mm thicker.