What is a fumé dial?
A 'smoked' dial that darkens from a bright centre to an almost black edge. Gradient and dégradé dials use the same idea.
Where it comes from
Fumé is French for smoked. The dial is coloured so the centre is light and the tone deepens towards the edge, usually over a sunburst finish so the bright centre glows. H. Moser & Cie made the fumé dial its signature in the 2000s, and it has since spread to brands at every price, often called gradient or dégradé.
What to look for
A good fumé fades evenly, with no visible band where the darkening starts. Because the edge is dark, markers and minute tracks there need contrast; many fumé dials keep the indices minimal or polished so they catch light against the black.
Fumé dials in our catalog
10 current watches in our catalog have a dial described this way, least expensive first:
- Spinnaker Bradner Automatic SP-5062-AA$370
- Zelos Swordfish 40mm SS 'Slate'$399
- Swatch Blancpain x Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms Atlantic Ocean SO35A100$445
- Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional 46mm T120.607.11.041.00$1,275
- Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph 42mm T137.427.11.041.01$2,150
- Omega Seamaster Railmaster 38 235.10.38.20.06.001$6,200
- Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A 5167A-001$27,257
- Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G 5168G-001—
- Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G 5811/1G-001—
- Rado Captain Cook Automatic 39mm R32223213—
Current watches in our catalog, which is weighted to popular enthusiast models.
Questions
- What's the difference between fumé and gradient dials?
- Fumé is a gradient that darkens to near-black at the edge, like smoked glass. Gradient is the broader term for any dial that shifts tone across its face.