Watch Almanac

What is a skeleton watch?

A watch whose dial, and usually the movement's plates and bridges, are cut away so you can see the gears, balance and mainspring working from the front.

How a movement is skeletonized

A normal movement is built on solid brass plates and bridges that hold the wheels in place. Skeletonizing cuts away as much of that metal as possible while keeping the movement rigid, leaving a frame of thin bridges. The dial goes too, or shrinks to a chapter ring around the edge, so the movement itself becomes the face of the watch.

On fine watches the cut edges are bevelled and polished by hand, which can take days per movement; that finishing is what you pay for in a skeleton from Cartier, Audemars Piguet or Vacheron Constantin. Inexpensive skeletons from brands like Fossil and Invicta are machine-cut and lightly decorated, and the effect is often busier than it is fine.

Skeleton, open heart or display back?

An open-heart watch has a small cut-out in a normal dial, usually showing just the balance wheel ticking. A display case back shows the movement from the rear through a sapphire window. A true skeleton shows the movement through the front, often from both sides.

What to know before you buy

Legibility suffers: hands disappear against the moving parts, so look for hands with a contrasting colour or lume. The see-through look also shows dust that gets inside, and an openworked movement takes a watchmaker longer to service, so expect to pay more for it.

Skeleton watches in our catalog

One current watch in our catalog has a dial described this way:

Current watches in our catalog, which is weighted to popular enthusiast models.

Questions

Are skeleton watches automatic?
Most are mechanical, either automatic or hand-wound, because a quartz movement has little to look at. Hand-wound skeletons show the most, since there's no rotor covering the back.
Are skeleton watches good quality?
It depends entirely on the finishing. A cheap skeleton is a standard movement with holes cut in it; a fine one has every bridge shaped and polished by hand. Look closely at the edges of the cut-outs.