Watch Almanac

What is sapphire crystal?

Synthetic sapphire, a lab-grown crystal of aluminium oxide that's almost impossible to scratch, used to cover the dial of most good watches.

Sapphire, mineral and acrylic

Sapphire rates 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, second only to diamond, so keys, walls and desk edges won't scratch it. It's grown as a crystal, sliced and polished, which is why it costs more than glass. It can still chip or shatter from a hard, sharp impact.

Mineral crystal is hardened glass, around 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale: cheaper, more scratch-prone, and common on affordable watches. Seiko's proprietary hardened mineral glass is called Hardlex.

Acrylic, sometimes called hesalite or plexiglass, is plastic. It scratches easily, but the scratches polish out with a paste like Polywatch, and it flexes instead of shattering, which is why the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch kept it for space. It also gives vintage-style watches a warm, domed look.

Anti-reflective coating

Sapphire is very reflective, so most watches add an anti-reflective coating on the inside of the crystal, the outside, or both. Coating on the outside works best but can scratch, leaving a smudge-like mark even though the sapphire beneath is fine.

Which crystal at which price

PriceSapphireMineralAcrylicWatches
Under $50032%59%9%101
$500 to $1,50087%13%0%100
$1,500 to $5,000100%0%0%99
$5,000 and up99%0%1%106

Current watches in our catalog, which is weighted to popular enthusiast models.

Questions

Is sapphire crystal worth it?
For a watch you wear every day, yes: it will look new for decades. Mineral and acrylic are fine on cheaper watches, and acrylic is easy to refresh.
Can sapphire crystal scratch?
Only from materials harder than it, mainly diamond and some ceramics or concrete grit. A visible mark is more often a scratched anti-reflective coating.