1. Work out what holds the links together

Look at the edge of the bracelet, on the side of each link.

  • Arrows printed on the inside of the links mean friction pins (push pins). They come out in the direction of the arrow.
  • Tiny screw slots on the side mean screw links, common on more expensive bracelets. Each screw comes out with a small flat screwdriver.
  • Pins with no arrows may be split pins, or pins held by a separate tiny collar (a tube inside the link). Collars fall out easily, so work over a soft cloth.

2. Gather the tools

  • A pin pusher or a bracelet sizing tool for pins, or a correctly fitting precision screwdriver for screws.
  • A soft cloth or a small tray so nothing rolls away.
  • Masking tape over the clasp and links helps prevent scratches.

3. Remove links in pairs

  1. Put the watch on and pinch the bracelet together under your wrist to count how many links are spare. Halve the number for each side.
  2. Starting next to the clasp, push the pin out in the direction of the arrow (or unscrew it), and lift out the link.
  3. Remove the same number of links from the other side so the clasp sits centered under your wrist.
  4. Rejoin the bracelet by pushing the pin back in against the direction of the arrow, or by refitting the screw. Push pins should go in flush and stay tight.
  5. Keep the spare links and pins in a labeled bag. You'll want them if you sell the watch.

4. Fine-tune with the clasp

Most clasps have two or three small holes for the spring bar where the bracelet joins the clasp. Moving the bar one hole shortens or lengthens the bracelet by a millimeter or two, which is often the difference between snug and pinching. Push the spring bar in with the forked end of a spring bar tool, slide it to the next hole, and let it click home. Some modern clasps have tool-free extensions instead.

Integrated bracelets are different

On integrated designs such as the Tissot PRX, the first link is part of the case shape and can't be removed or bent. That rigid link also makes the watch wear longer than its case, which is why we record the as-worn lug-to-lug for those watches. See what lug-to-lug is.

If you're choosing between a bracelet and a strap, the lug width tells you which straps fit: see watches by lug width and our NATO strap guide.